Ride the Tidal Bore!

Inspired by an excellent book by Robin Esrock called The Great Canadian Bucket List, I planned our latest adventure, a Maritime road trip, all around the chance to ride a tidal bore. We knew we wanted to see all 4 Atlantic provinces, and figured the best way to do it would be to rent a car in Moncton, New Brunswick and leave it in Halifax, Nova Scotia, flying for our final leg of the journey to St John's, Newfoundland. Along the way we would cross the Confederation Bridge as well, and spend some time in both Charlottetown and Cavendish, PEI. Tides are a tricky thing however; they wait for no man. Our best bet was to leave Charlottetown one fine July morning and hightail it straight to Maitland, Nova Scotia, a three hour drive. By leaving at 8am, with a pit stop at Tim Horton's, we could make it to Maitland by 11. That allowed an hour for any unforeseen emergencies, traffic tie ups or moose crossings. We made it in good time, with time to spare. First things first, we located the tidal bore rafting company River Runners. Located in a large blue house, just minutes from the only intersection in Maitland,  River Runners offers both full and half day tours. Both tours leave at the same time; it is essential to check their website for tour times as they vary according to the tide schedule. The half day tour stays out on the water for about two hours and offers much needed hot beverages upon your return. The full day tour spends an extra two hours out on the river and then treats riders to a BBQ steak dinner. Prices vary from $60-90 per person (Canadian) according to the length of ride and its intensity.

Getting ready was an adventure in itself! First we donned the great big yellow raincoats, then the lifejackets and then the boots. You can forgo the boots if you have waterproof shoes that will stay fastened. Deep down I always knew crocs trumped flip flops! Once dressed, the masses were divided into groups of 8 and assigned a leader/driver. We then trekked to down to the shores of the Shubenacadie, which when the tide is out is a very long walk indeed. In front of us a long dock stretched out into a field of mud, and way off in the distance the river appeared. We made our way to the water and climbed into our assigned Zodiacs.
The boats move as a group out a little ways and spread out. About eight boats in all filled with an assortment of adventure seekers, some still in grade school, others retirees and the majority somewhere in between. One boat will stay empty and accompany the group in case anyone falls out, or needs a break from what will soon prove to be a very wild ride.
Finally, off in the distance, an innocuous looking wave approaches. We wait, until this wave is underneath us and then we take off riding the crest. Looking over the side I see we are now sitting on top of a metre high wave that is rushing up the river, forcing the river to change direction.

Twice a day the tide comes into the Bay of Fundy and the mouth of the Shubenacadie River, pushing 160 billion tonnes of seawater into a narrowing passage. These unique circumstances create the highest tides in the world, and create the phenomenon known as the tidal bore. As the water hits sandbars, it creates tidal rapids, whirlpools and cross currents. It is never-ending white water conditions and we plunge into the rapids again and again. I hang on tight and close my eyes each time a powerful wave of chocolate brown water engulfs the boat. We ride the waves, following the current about 13 kilometres down the river. Farther down river, the banks rise sharply on either side, stone faced cliffs above which tower pine trees and eagle nests.

The Shubenacadie is a favourite of the bald eagle as low tide exposes the fish and makes for easy hunting. As the tide flows in, the water climbs the cliff walls reaching toward the high water line. I choose to bail, and our guide signals the emergency boat, allowing me to climb from one Zodiac to the other and give my middle aged muscles a chance to relax. It also allows me a chance to photograph some of the many eagle nests. I watch our boat with my fourteen year old son still aboard, plunge through the waves. Finally its over, the wave has petered out, and many riders take the opportunity to jump over and float in the current. I'm very glad to be wearing the yellow rain slicker as we zoom back up to the mouth of the river. The water in July was fairly warm, but the wind is cold and we have a long ride.

Back at headquarters we find hot chocolate waiting for us, hot showers and heated floors. Once changed and dried, we are ready to sit down to a barbequed steak, salad and roll. Food never tasted so good! The adventure over, we headed to our B and B. Note, Maitland is a very, very small town, but Truro is only about half an hour way for those looking for a greater variety of accommodations. It was an exciting all-Canadian adventure, and one more item to cross off the Great Canadian Bucket list!