Hiking Signal Hill, St. John's, Newfoundland

Prior to visiting Signal Hill in St John's, Newfoundland, Canada, I searched the internet in vain for the lowdown on hiking. I'm neither the most athletic nor the bravest when it comes to heights. Combine that with a middle-aged tendency to worry, and a fierce case of vertigo, and I wasn't sure hiking Signal Hill was for me. Particularly when I discovered a raging argument exists online between those who hiked with children and hold Parks Canada responsible for the lack of safety precautions, and those who feel children have no business on the trails in the first place. I'm a firm believer in "if a six year old can do it, so can I". But what if a six year old can't do it? That left me in a serious quandary.
A friend of mine, fellow teacher and serious hiker, assured me that I would have no problems. Still...
Well the day came, and there we stood, high above the city of St. John's, Newfoundland. on top of  Signal Hill, and we had to choose a way down.

There are actually several trails that begin at the National Historic Site - all offer amazing views of St. John's Bay, and the capital city itself. We had taken a taxi to Cabot Tower, right at the hill's summit, and there, buffeted by strong winds, we chose Lookout Trail. An easy 300 metre loop around the summit, Lookout Trail provides breathtaking views of both city and ocean. A second easy trail heads north towards Cuckold Cove. Known as Ladies Lookout, this 650 metre trail begins at the upper parking lot and crosses the summit, heading away from the city. We chose a third trail, Queen's Battery Barracks, that leads 500 metres down to the Visitor Interpretation Centre. It is rated by Parks Canada as an intermediate trail. Each trail was both gravel and dirt under foot with some rocky parts or scrubby brush to navigate around. Unfortunately for us, the rain chose at that moment to pour down and we returned to the greater safety of the roadway. This left two trails - the easy Burma Road trail, leading 1.2 kilometres toward Quidi Vidi Village, and the most challenging trail - North Head Trail for another day.
The following morning dawned sunny and dry and we chose to postpone our hike in favour of a boat tour on the Iceberg Quest. Leaving from Pier 6 on the St. John's harbourfront, Iceberg Quest takes visitors on scenic tours in search of puffins, whales, dolphins and, of course, icebergs. At a cost of $50 per person, it provides a fabulous view of North Head Trail from the ocean. And that beautiful summer's day, the trail was busy! This was the information I had been seeking! There seemed to be a ton of people, of all ages, fearlessly making their way along the trail, seemingly in no great danger. I was hooked and couldn't wait.

The tour itself was well worth the money. In addition to incredible views, we saw a humpback whale swim under our boat - apparently they are attracted to the colour orange, and Iceberg Quest accordingly paints all its boats orange. Fast on its heels was an entire pod of dolphins which amused themselves no end swimming under and around the poor whale. Then we saw the iceberg. Four stories high (and that's the portion we could see), and in more shades of white than I had realized existed, it floated serenely by. The captain sailed our boat around the iceberg and the crew reeled in floating chunks for us to touch and taste. In that moment there was nothing finer than a Coke and Screech over 12 000 year old ice cubes!

Our two hour cruise had stretched to 3 1/2, worth every minute - but that left us no time to return to Signal Hill. Our entire trip to St. John's had been shortened by fog delays and airport closures - though I am happy to report that as of 2016, St John's will have the necessary technology in place to land planes in fog. While disappointed - it is another reason to return to St. John's. In the meanwhile I have discovered Google Street Views now cover many of Canada's best hiking trails. I have enjoyed a virtual hike of North Head Trail and this is what I have learned:
1. North Head Trail is reported to be 3.7 kilometres and is classified as a loop by Parks Canada. I wouldn't say it's a loop, unless you include Signal Hill Road. People seemed to be evenly divided between those who chose to walk up, and those who chose to walk down. 2. The actual trail portion is 1.7 kilometres, and descends almost 500 feet. The average hiker takes 90 minutes to complete the trail portion - I imagine if you're heading up, it depends on your stamina for stairs!
3. It is not recommended to complete this trail in fog, rain or high winds. There will be times when you will be precariously close to the edge, with nothing but ocean far below you. For this reason, the trail is not recommended for young children. It is occasionally steep, the ground in places is loose dirt and gravel, and the paths are, at times, quite narrow.
4. There are many stairs - about 750 of them, so consider your own level of fitness before beginning.
5. In many places, boardwalks with railings have been installed. In other places, a chain has been attached to the side of the cliff as a handhold when the going is at its most precarious. You do not have to hold on - the trail is not wide, but more than adequate, though those going in opposite directions do well to take turns.

6. Stay on the trail - the terrain is rocky and you could find yourself on loose ground. You could also dislodge stones and cause others difficulties.
7. If you begin at the top, your starting area is behind Cabot Tower. If you begin at the bottom, follow Lower Battery Road. This is best reached from the foot of  Signal Hill Road, not far past the Sheraton Hotel.
8. Wear sturdy footwear, bring water and take tons of pictures!
9. Leave dogs at home, but enjoy meeting many happy tourists and friendly locals.
10. Reward yourself with Quidi Vidi's own brew - an ice-cold iceberg beer!


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