Witches, Authors and Wharfs, Oh My!

My very favourite time of the year is approaching. There are pumpkins on porches and a chill in the air, and soon it will be time to strike a little terror into the hearts of neighbourhood children. We have long prided ourselves on having the scariest home on the block come Halloween, and this year like many before it, there will be zombies and coffins, skeletons and witches, and of course gravestones. I have long held a certain affection for graveyards, and all things that go bump in the night, and for many years I dreamed of visiting Salem, Massachusetts at Halloween. In my mind's eye, I always imagined darkened streets and candlelight, and the smell of something burning...

A mere 16 miles north of Boston, Salem makes for an easy and enjoyable day trip. We rode the orange subway line of the MBTA to North Station and from there caught a commuter train. For less than $10 and in only 49 minutes time, we found ourselves disembarking at Salem Station, only a five minute walk into the heart of Salem. We headed straight to the Salem Witch Museum. There, based on actual court documents, the museum brings to life the witch trials of 1692 for which Salem is famous. Using life sized stage sets and a chilling narration, the events that finally led to the deaths of twenty people are recounted. While none were actually burned, nineteen people were hanged, and one man was crushed to death. The combination of a belief in the devil, an outbreak of small pox and  accusations by a number of teenage girls culminated in widespread suspicion and hysteria. More than 150 people were jailed and awaiting execution before calmer heads prevailed.

Today, Salem is a bustling tourist town, with pedestrian only thoroughfares, intriguing shops and tourist traps. It is a little like Clifton Hill, Niagara Falls with its houses of horror, but Salem has a more dignified side as well. We walked through the town, stopping to tour the Old Burying Point Cemetery and pay our respects at the Salem Witch Trials memorial. Statues also commemorate Salem's two most famous "residents" - Elizabeth  Montgomery of "Bewitched" fame and author Nathaniel Hawthorne. Next stop was Wynott's Wand shop for a look at Harry's wand and a butterbeer. A truly remarkable wand shop for all aspiring wizards, Wynott's is like stepping in to a Potter book. Along the same street, there are a number of magic/witchcraft shops - and if you're looking for a psychic, Salem offers more per capita than any other place.

We continued walking toward the harbour and passed the Customs House. Though famous for its dark history, Salem was actually once America's sixth largest city with a bustling waterfront and busy privateering trade. Fortunes were made in international trade, and many houses remain, built originally for wealthy sea captains. Nathaniel Hawthorne once worked as the port's overseer at Pickering Wharf, the setting for his future novel, the Scarlet Letter. Today the wharf is almost abandoned, but near it is a house worth investigating - the House of the Seven Gables, the oldest surviving example of a 17th century wooden mansion in New England.
Guided tours of the house and gardens are $12.50, From there, we continued on to the ferry
docks, passing a fire truck adorned with Salem's logo, a flying witch on her broomstick. The ferry runs between Boston and Salem five times daily. The cost is a hefty $45 return, $25 one way for the hour's trip. These high prices do subsidize residents' rates making the ferry a more affordable commuter option. It can be a rough voyage, so if you suffer from seasickness, consider returning to Salem Station. Of course if you plan on visiting for Halloween, you may wish to book accommodations and enjoy all the season has to offer. Perhaps a ghost tour or two!